The Golden Triange

I'm a model...you know what I mean....

Monday, we got home from a busy weekend traveling the Golden Triangle. I bought an obnoxious amount of shoes in Jaipur, we visited the Amber Fort (which I appreciated for it’s views and architecture, but was put to sleep by the history lecture. I decided to pretend to be a supermodel and take portraits with Nancy against the cracked, colorful walls instead.), the Hawa Mahal (a building created for women to peer out onto the city scene back in the day) and ate dinner at a revolving restaurant (similar to the Space Needle...but a large cylinder building and was a little shaky-all of us started to get dizzy). I was a little disappointed in Jaipur. It is called the pink city and people swear by the shopping, but the pink of the city is faded and the shopping was sub par. I was expecting to leave the city with a suitcase filled with Indian loot, but instead, I walked away with a few pieces of jewelry, shoes and a jewelry box.

One noteworthy moment was bribing a police officer out of a traffic ticket though. Clearly, the officer was taking advantage of his power and our foreign, naive faces, as I’m pretty sure there are zero traffic laws in India (it’s normal to see people driving on the wrong side of the road for Pete’s sake!) but nonetheless, we were pulled over because Jonny wasn’t wearing a seatbelt. Yes, you read correctly, a seatbelt violation. Seriously!? Instead of risking a ticket, we paid the police officer 100 rupees (about $3) and called it even. Needless to say, we were all angry at the obvious breach of power. Being on the opposite end of racial discrimination for once in our lives was a little unsettling. Poor white faces in a sea of difference.

Driving to Agra was an adventure in and of itself. We were forced to detour numerous times because of the road conditions. It started to get stormy and dark and a little scary with the swerving Indian traffic. We made it to Agra in one piece though. Now, Agra is kind of a big deal. Home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World, you would think that the city would be pumpin’ with Tourist traps and Westernized-Indian motifs. But no. Driving into Agra was like driving into a slum outside of Delhi. Bumpy, dirt roads, vendors selling greasy food from plywood covered shacks (a Westerner’s worst digestive nightmare), and the token ice cream cart selling strawberry licks and mango doubles. Imagine this as the frame to the epic and regal Taj Mahal.

Our home for 24 hours was called Hotel Sheela and recommended in the Lonely Planet. All other Lonely Planet recommendations have been great, but Hotel Sheela was not one that I would return to. The service was great, food delicious, but oh my oh my, the BUGS! I’m sure it has become quite apparent that I DO NOT do well with bugs (a self-realization that I have come to understand on this trip) but they were caked to the doors of each room. The moment you opened a door, they would all flood in and take shelter. Bugs were on the walls, sheets, mirrors…

Breath.

The Taj surpassed my highest expectation. It was absolutely beautiful (and this coming from someone who does model shoots at the Amber Fort out of boredom). Honestly, it took my breath away. You walk through these gates that are majestic and enter this beautiful courtyard that supports the massive monument of love and grief.

The Tragic Story of the Taj: It was built by Shah Jahn for his wife who died giving birth to their 14th child. Years after her death, and well after the Taj was under construction, one of Shah Jahn’s sons imprisoned him and he spent his last years of life looking towards his completed masterpiece from a prison cell.

After a morning spent at the Taj, we went to a ritzy brunch at the Oberjoi Hotel (the nicest hotel chain in India) and ate like kings. Fat kings. OHMYGOD, the food was so good, fruit that burst in your mouth, banana nut bread that melted to your tongue, cheeses that were rich in flavor and bizarre flavored, fresh squeezed juices. It felt good to balance a bug-infested night with a posh morning.

A couple observations and lessons that I learned from this trip:
1. Camels were as common in Jaipur as Toyotas are in the USA
2. India is a smorgasbord of poverty and wealth, which was especially apparent in Agra.
3. As rugged and strong as I like to pretend to be, I am still a princess at heart.
4. Monkeys babies, clinging to their mommy's chest is the most precious image in the world.
5. Monkeys as roadkill will make you sick to your stomach.
6. Dead cows are tied up by their feet and carried behind tractors to be disposed of, and don't look holy at all.

Okay, enough for now. Peace.

Saggy Tights

Kaitlyn’s Kindergarten Screening Test:
Q: Do you know what a cow is?
Kaitlyn: I don’t know. But they sure do stink!

You know when little girls wear those thick white tights and they get all baggy at the knees? That is what the cows are like here. Their skin is baggy white tights drooping all over their enormous bodies. They meander through the streets and plop down just where ever they please-even if it means that they are sitting in hectic mid-day traffic. I kind of love it. Cows make me smile now.

Campaign Kick-off and Dance Show:
I’ve swallowed quite the mouthful and I’m now realizing that perhaps I should have chewed a little slower, gulped a little less. I’m working on this dance performance for the kids that I teach and I only have a couple more weeks to put the whole thing together. I’m realizing that I’m going to need more material to work with, so I’m now combining the dances, with a couple songs, and this campaign kick-off that I have also decided to undertake.

In my “right-before-I-fall-asleep-brilliance” I came up with an idea for a human rights campaign that would tie in perfectly with Maitri’s work. Here’s the pitch: we do a series of workshops with women and children to help them gain self-respect and dignity. With a new sense of pride, the participants are less likely to engage in risky behaviors. Their new sense of confidence allows them to stand up for themselves and say “no” to physical and emotional threats. As a result, the campaign helps women and children live happier, longer lives. During the workshops, we take photos of the participants and help them come up with positive adjectives to describe who they are. These phrases are then photo-shopped onto the pictures and made into posters/coffee-table books/advertisements on Maitri’s website/etc. The women can see themselves on an advertisement, which gives them added confidence and helps Maitri promote the campaign.

So, I’m kicking the whole thing off at this dance show by having the kids stand up and tell the audience their “self-adjectives.” I’m also planning on conducting the workshops with the women working at Maitri’s vocational training school in Delhi.

While I think it has a TON of potential, I’m sort of freaking out! Can I actually pull this off? And more importantly, can I pull it off well? Let’s cross our fingers.

Weekend Plans:
Apparently, we can’t keep our feet planted on the ground for more than a week. This weekend we are planning a trip to Jaipur and Agra. We leave tomorrow for Jaipur (known for its history, desert, and shopping) then Sunday we will head to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. When it’s all said and done, it seems that I like to live out of my suitcase.

Just in the nick of time...

On our way to the airport (leaving Shillong) we were running ahead of schedule and had time to go to the infamous Hindu temple, Kamakhya located on Nilachal Hill in Guwahati. We happened to be in time for the first of a four day festival in celebration for the mother, Sati.

Legend has it, that Sudarshana (a minion to the God Vishnu) killed Shiva's wife, Sati, because she was burning herself and her father (in disapproval of the marriage) was causing Shiva to go mad. Her pieces were thrown into the sky and her womb fell on Nilchal Hill. Overnight, the Kamakhya temple was built and represents one of many sacred places in India where her pieces fell. During the summertime, the waters run red with red zink representing her menstrual fluids. Women come from around the world during this festival to worship Sati and get blessed with fertility.

As we wandered around the chaotic and vibrant display of color and spirituality, Sadu's began their four day fast, widows begged for money, and incense burned constantly creating a dense miasma. Clasping our hands, we prayed to Sati, repeating mantras that none of us understood. We received blessings, flowers and bindis on our foreheads. Men held tritans, hair was dreaded into masses, and hands were shoved in our faces begging for money. As the hoards of people bustled by and stared into our foreign, bewildered eyes I became self conscious of my existence at this ceremony, yet intrigued by the passion and devotion that I experienced. This was one of those moments where you stop, and think...holy shit! I'm in INDIA!

Work and Play in Shillong

cute little girl at the Bethany Society
Cooking class at the Bethany Society...smelled SOO GOOD!
Workshop at Saint Edmonds School
Maitri Interns at the Army School of Shillong
PRO in the making.
Shillong has proven to be a highlight of my time in India. It is a progressive jewel in the region, filled with hospitality and kindness. We were able to meet and work with the Maitri team here. It seems that Maitri’s access to schools is better here than in Delhi, and we were able to conduct two HIV/AIDS related workshops to educated students about the realities of the disease. We also had the opportunity to explore the various nooks of Shillong, eat at some fabulous restaurants (I ate meat for the first time since I’ve been in India), take some golfing lessons at 7:00 am and experience an extremely oily traditional Kerala Ayurveda massage. (The massage was a jolt of culture shock as we were completely naked, sprawled and greased…no body part excluded.)

The workshops that we conducted at the Saint Edwards School and the Army School of Shillong were highly successful. The students were receptive and active participants. I was surprised with their candid responses to some of the questions that were being posed, as well as their confidence to confide in us and ask questions related to HIV and sexuality. While it is disconcerting that the reality is that the students are exposed to risky behaviors that can result in HIV, their willingness to get personal and ask questions is encouraging. My hope is that they take home our messages and that they will think before they act, respect themselves and others, and engage in healthy living habits.

I’ve been impressed by the level of commitment to education for children of all socio-economic levels and mental abilities. Visiting institutions like the Bethany Society and the Mother Theresa Home are inspiring examples of how significant change can start out at the smallest levels, and have an enormous impact on the community and the lives of the students. Then Bethany Society is a rehabilitation center and vocational training center for those living with disabilities. After speaking with the man who runs the institution, we learned that it is their ultimate goal to integrate the students with disabilities with other students at normal public schools. They also are training older students with disabilities various vocational skills to equip them with the skills to be self-sufficient. Their facility is pristinely manicured, and the students are provided with quality tools to aid in this process, such as machines that convert books into brail and new sewing machines. The Mother Theresa Home was equally inspiring. This institution was also home to children living with disabilities, as well as orphans. The children were eager to show us around and sing for us. With continued support from the government, I predict that improvement in rehabilitation centers and those centers envisioning integration for all children will continue. Currently, the government support is on a state level. The Indian government should value these small institutions and provide funding for the work that is being done.

It was a pleasure working here. I was especially excited to visit another region of India that very few, if any, tourists visit. The northeastern region is incredibly green and hilly. The weather is about as unpredictable as the future. One minute you are enjoying a nice cool outdoor stroll, and the next minute, you are stuck indoors from a windstorm and downpour. Despite this, it gives the city of Shillong a certain charm that is irresistible. As I look outside now, and listen to the rain dripping off of the rooftops and slide down to the ground to generate masses of mud I can’t help but smile and dread returning to Delhi’s sticky heat.

Bugs. Bugs. Bugs.

This morning I woke up to Nancy in distress. Confused and sleepy I discovered that ants were invading her nightstand. As there was no food in our room, I’m a little distressed to learn about the invasion-especially when I envision the minuscule ants crawling all over me in my sleep.
In the past week, I have adopted about a zillion mosquito bites all over my body, killed a menacing, flying, speed demon bug, and listened to other pesky little critters buzz around my head at night. The apartment is dirty. We are living in filth, and no matter how clean we try to keep it, we are still in India, and we are still dirtier than I’d like to admit. Whether it is the dirt that we drag in on our shoes or the odors and sweat that clings to me like white on rice….there is just no escaping it. And here I am, giving health and hygiene lessons, when I can’t even rid my own house of insects!

I’m getting frustrated with teaching. I appreciate and admire the children’s enthusiasm and their eagerness to come to school. However, I don’t know how to command the children’s attention and they are so accustomed to yelling and running around in the classroom, that my efforts to gain control are unsuccessful. Yesterday, I taught their art lesson, and I just about gave up & walked away from level 3. Level 3 is the oldest group, (ages 13-16), all boys, and the absolute worst! Today I have the challenge of beginning sexual education with them and at this point, I feel like I’m walking into a den of tigers. How can I expect respect and attention while talking about sex, when they can’t even focus when I’m drawing a “horizon line” and mountains? Advice???

A couple days ago, the roommates were having a discussion about their impressions of India. (I sat back and listened). I have a difficult time understanding the irritation that people have when there are inefficiencies in developing nations. No, I take that back, I do understand the irritation. But I don't understand why people can't deal with it. I don't understand why people consider a country "bad" or "unbearable" because of a guy peeing on the side of the road. We are so caught up in our Western ideals, that any other life seems inconceivable. I'm not going to claim to be some sort of exception, as I often get frustrated with little cultural differences (like interrupting cell phones and the overall "slowness" to get things done, and the BUGS) but overall, I'm totally diggin' India. Sure, it takes a month to get internet to work and people try to rip you off any chance they get but come on! The guy who whips out his wiener on the side of the road, the children who don't seem to understand personal space, the inefficient train stations...it's charming! it's part of the adventure! it's INDIA!

Haha...I just realized that last rant came after much venting about the filth of my Indian apartment and disrespectful children. As I said...I'm no exception. Stoopid Westerners.

Peace.

Birthday Outting

Today, we went out for my birthday celebration. We hit up TGIFriday in hopes of beer and burgers. Unfortunately, you have to be 25 to drink in India AND of course we over-looked the fact that we couldn't get beef (as cow is holy and all...minor detail) Nonetheless, we had a great time indulging in yummy treats...greasy nachos, drinking sugary sweet smoothies and scarfing rich brownies. So fun!

Shopping and Roommate Bonding

Today was a perfect day in Delhi. Nancy and I slept in until noon, and I'm sure the Spendloves' had been awake for hours doing crossword puzzles and working out, but they apparently didn't mind waiting for us. We decided to hit up Khan Market again and see if we could be more successful in finding some "can't live without it" steals. And...low and behold, we found them! In fact, I was able to purchase enough home decor to vamp up my kitchen, living room AND bedroom. (Just what I needed...more bedding!) Poor Jonny was dragged along all day with the girls. (Secretly, I think he enjoyed himself though) Lunch was delicious...we went to The Big Chill-a restaurant specifically designed to attract Westerners. Old Hollywood movie posters were framed on the walls and the entire menu was catered to our delicate digestive systems. I was thoroughly disappointed with the ice cream...and I RARELY complain about ice cream. C'est la vie...

This evening we got home and ate dinner and then watched Best in Show. It was Nancy and Jenny's first time witnessing the sheer brilliance.

Also, I got to talk to Colin tonight and wish him luck on his big adventure for the summer. He's off to Chile for a study abroad. He'll be taking intensive Spanish Language courses, and enjoying the beautiful country.

More later. Peace.

Obama fo' yo Mama!

SO, i know this blog is supposed to be about my travel experiences this summer, and I really hate to go off on a tangent....BUT can I just take a quick moment to express my complete and utter excitement concerning the brand new and super fresh democratic presidential nominee. Yeah. I'm pretty stoked. That's all.

Peace.

What I miss, Rotary Club & Art Class

Colin and I were talking the other day and he asked me what I missed most about home (besides him and Tiffany of course) and I really couldn’t answer him very well. I love traveling. And when I’m on-the-go, I don’t really miss much. When I’m traveling, I get this sense of complete freedom. Even though I’m here to work, I have no other commitments and besides, work isn’t work like at home. I’m doing something I actually believe in and I’m contributing to making a difference.

However, after contemplating this question for a while, I realized that I will definitely miss my personal monthly ritual…one of my most favorite things to do in the whole wide world. It goes something like this: every time that I get my subscription in the mail to my favorite home décor magazine, Domino, I will go in my room, crawl in bed, light a candle, turn on some Ella Fitzgerald and read the whole thing back to front and then read it all again. Then, after I’m done with this, I’ll drive to 9th and 9th and get a cocoa from Coffee Garden and then wander up to Hip and Humble to do some inspirational shopping. I miss that day of the month that I can completely devote to ME.

Last night, after work we were invited to go to a Rotary Club meeting to listen to a guest speaker discussing safe injections. The evening began with delicious “snacks” to tide me over until dinner. When I say “snacks”, I mean…wonderful crispy veggies and paneer (cheese), sliced melon, pineapple, mangos, coconut, and kiwi, sweet swirl and oatmeal cookies and last but not least…ICE CREAM. Just a couple words about the ice cream here….it’s not like your typical vanilla. It’s more like eating spoonfuls of coolwhip, which I’m completely okay with. It’s creamy and light and hits the spot on a Wednesday evening after work. And these "snacks" are all presented to me before dinner. Oh how spoiled I am here! The meeting was interesting, but I kept getting irritated at the lack of respect towards the presenter. Cell phones were ringing off the hook, people were chatting away with side conversations, and if someone disagreed with the expert doctor, they would just stand up and say so. And then I wonder, is it just a cultural difference? Am I just an arrogant Westerner that thinks my way is the only way? I hate these moments, when I think I’m advocating for respect and then realize that maybe I need to be more aware of Indian culture and just respect the differences myself.

Today, I get to teach the art class. I’m totally thrilled…especially after a slow week at the office. I came up with the whole art and health curriculum for all three levels of students and NOW I get to teach it! Initially, I was not even slightly excited to teach (not really sure why this is....but I just had no desire to teach), but now I think it will be a great way to break up my day. So, level 1 is learning how to color in the lines, level 2 is learning how to draw a monkey and a lion, and level 3 is learning how to draw the human body. We’ll see how it goes. Now, if I were a better artist, I’m sure it would be much better, as I think I will be learning along with the kids. Oh well…

More later. Peace.

Photos from our trip to Varanasi

V for Varanasi

After a week of working, we decided to get outta town for the weekend and head to Varanasi. A little history on this city...

"The Ganges is not a river, it is an aspect of the divine." -Raghubir Singh

Varanasi claims to be one of the oldest cities in the world. It rose in prominence when Shiva worshiping was established-it is now the City of Shiva (Hindu God)and as a result, it is the Hindu's holiest place on earth. Pilgrims travel to the city to wash away their sins in the Ganges River which is considered to be a river of healing powers. Also along the river, cremation of loved ones are performed constantly. Those who die in Varanasi are liberated by completing the cycle of life. The Lonely Planet book states, "The magical but sometimes overwhelming city is where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public on the city's ghats. The accessibility to the practices of an ancient but still living religious tradition is what captivates many visitors."

Needless to say, it's a must-see.

We bought our train tickets very last minute and were thankful to be able to score tickets at all. The way there, we rode in a sleeper car with no air conditioning, which was...an experience. Here are some observations that I noted along the way...
1. Again, feeling ripped off and being frustrated by language barriers
2. At the station, people get comfortable on flattened cardboard boxes as flies get comfortable on their faces.
3. Sick dogs roam freely, limping, emaciated and broken.
4. On the train, the sleeper car resembles an old elementary school bus-complete with florescent lights, smells and germs. Don't forget, 3 to a seat!
5. The smells literally make me want to vomit that filter in from outside.
7. I now see real slums-there is a greater population in a much smaller area than in Africa. In the middle of nowhere, a hot pink stucco temple, the size of a couple outhouses sticks out against a dusty composition.
8. As dusk settles, I'm reminded of the semi-sheer curtain used to separate scenes in ballets. It acts as a mere separation(both figuratively and literally) from the world I peer upon.
9. Enormous bulls that are so dark and shiny they look like they were smothered in tar, relax in dirt and look as comfortable as pimps in a hot tub.
10. Mass amounts of trash peek out of streams and rivers.

The journey was over 3 hours delayed (making the total train ride-one way-16 hours) but we finally made it.

When you get out of the train station, there is now way to know where to go, as all signs are in Hindi. We just followed a crowd and miraculously made it out with few hassles. We got into a taxi and it was apparent that we were all eager to make it to our final destination. There was no chitchat with the driver, despite his persistent attempts. We got out of the taxi and wandered down the Ghats and peered into shops until we found our quaint guest-house (Guest-house Ganges View)filled with antiques, relics and personality. Paintings and masks of Hindu Gods lined the walls and flowing curtains framed the large windows that looked out onto the Ganges. Though we expected a room with 2 beds, when we got in there was only 1- which made for a crowded night as we all crammed onto the bed horizontally (our feet dangling off the edge). Despite the discomfort, the room was beautiful with random antique lights and gold trim...and most importantly- AIR CONDITIONING!

Shopping in Varanasi is fantastic! A stones toss from our hotel I got these hippie-chic pants, two scarves, a wrap, a hot pink bed cover and 2 postcards for less than 30 BUCKS!!! SCORE!

At 6:00 pm we took a boat up the river to view the various ghats. I even got to paddle...in the freakin' Ganges! which was a struggle with the makeshift oars. The real master of paddles was our boatman-who was only 15 years old. We made it to Harishchandra Ghat which was were the ritual cremation was being held. We watched a group of men carry one body down to the shore to be drenched in the river, the grandson saying his final goodbye, and other bodies stiff and smoldering in a firepit. As night swept over the sky, bats the size of eagles circled above us. It was eerie and a bit morbid to say the least...as they say though, "when in Rome..."

The next morning we forced ourselves to wake up at 5:00AM (the earliest I've been awake since...?) and watched the sun rise and paint the sky. Devotees bathed in the river, others practiced yoga, Aghori's decorated in white facemasks meditated and chanted...it was unlike anything that I have ever witnessed.

At 7:00AM we took a private yoga class at our guest-house. It felt so good to stretch and exercise again. It ended with a short chanting session-which I surprisingly enjoyed quite a bit! I'm glad that we got to take the class...it was something that I'll look back on and think, "Remember that time I did yoga in Varanasi??"

After an eventful morning, the sun began to roast the city and I felt like I was literally melting into the earth. As we wandered through back alleys, crowded with vendors selling trinkets, silver, fabric, etc etc etc, I zoned out and tried to focus on putting one foot in front of the other. We got totally lost in our attempt to find a particular temple, gave up, and when we finally made it out, we decided to take a rickshaw to the train station and get out of the heat. It was just too unbearable.

The journey back to Delhi was a dream compared to the first train. We actually scored the A/C car and all of my fantasies of riding the Hogwart Express were fulfilled. People walked by selling juice and treats, and we even got pillows and blankets! We made it home by 11:00AM and as I look back on the weekend, I am filled with a sense of utter ecstasy. My feelings of desire towards some sort of spirituality have been reaffirmed by this mystical, charismatic, lively, Woodstock-meets-God kind of town.

Enough rambling...I'll try to put up some photos soon!
Peace.