Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Only 3 days left!

It’s official. I’m getting really, really, really excited to go back to the US. Today as I was walking back to work from my lunch-park with my friend Ganesh, I started to realize how irritable I’ve been lately. I just haven’t been my easy-going, laid-back traveler self. I think that every trip I go on, I tend to have a few “freak out” moments where I just get indescribably irate with things like ants, cockroaches, honking horns, irritating people…but, for some reason, all of those small freak out moments are accumulating this week.

For example, I was talking to Ganesh and he was telling me about how he wants to quit his internship early because he’s sick of staying in the office until 6:00 pm every night and how he was bugged because Probir (the supervisor of interns in the office) wouldn’t sign his certificate saying he was “a hard worker.” I piped in and said, “Well, it seems like the interns this session are much more lax then the interns last session. Last session we wouldn’t leave the office until at LEAST 7:00.” Ganesh told me I was being mean! Mean?! Come on!?! I wasn’t being mean…I was merely stating a fact, that perhaps Probir didn’t think Ganesh was a hard worker…because…well…he isn’t. Okay, okay…so maybe I should have kept my mouth shut. But, I have opinions. (And let me just say that I’ve put up with Ganesh’s opinions for the past three weeks with a big, fat smile on my face…like when he told me the shirt I had tailored looked like something that a woman selling fish would wear…and when he asked me why I didn’t dye my hair darker because he didn’t like the color of my natural hue.)

I guess it is a good thing that my last day in the office is Thursday. I’m taking a half day, getting my belongings together, and then scooting out of the country on FRIDAY! I’ll be able to lay on my own bed, in my own room, in my own house on Saturday! Not to mention, I get to see all of my friends and family and Colin and my dog!!! I. Simply. Cannot. Wait.

(P.S. for the record, Ganesh is great...he's got a great sense of humor and I really do like the kid. I just needed to vent for a moment. Okay? Okay.)

Peace. Love. Excitement!!

What My Future Holds.

Things that the palm reader told me:

1.) i have a mark on my right side (I have an appendix scar)
2.) i should avoid wearing too much black
3.) i have had a good friend,then stopped being friends with that person
4.) i am very friendly
5.) i like to travel, and i will always be traveling around
6.) i will have many different jobs in my life
7.) i do things spur-of-the-moment
8.) i have recently been in a car accident (i was in one last weekend!)
9.) i will have 4 children. 2 boys, 2 girls. (too many! haha)
10.) i might get pregnant right before i'm married...have to be careful!
11.) i will have a long marriage and get married in the next couple years
12.) i will spend a lot of money
13.) i will never be hungry
14.) i will own 2 pieces of property
15.) i may have a falling out with a friend in the next couple years
16.) i have to be careful in automobiles in the next year because i might be in a fatal accident
17.) if i survive this year then i will live a long, happy life and be healthy
18.) i will return to india in the future
19.) i am very tense about my future
20.) i will be very spiritual one day

Peace. Love. Surviving Accidents.

Feeling Fancy

Last Friday, I met up with my friend Poline for cocktails. I figured that the affair would be a classy one (as she is one fancy lady)…so I dressed up in my nicest dress and even wore my espadrilles for the first time in India. She had her driver pick me up at my door (royal treatment!) where I met her, her husband Heath, and her friends Rosie and Chance. From there, we swerved through traffic until we reached the Taj West End Hotel. Doesn’t the name of it just sound fancy? And it truly is a beauty. We walked through a small garden with views of the hotel, lit up in its five star glory, and came to the Blue Ginger (the hotel’s bar). As we walked up the stairs, I felt like a celebrity. Journalists were snapping photos, the owners shook our hands and welcomed us, and men looking more dapper than anyone I’ve seen in India to date walked around with appetizers on silver platters. I could seriously get used to that.

In all reality though, it really makes you realize the stark contrast between the rich and poor in this country. There is a mall near my firm called UB City. (I've mentioned it a few times I think). It's massive and has stores like Diesle, Jimmy Choo, Lois Vuitton, and other really really high end places that I don't even feel comfortable stepping foot in. I asked someone the other day, "Who can afford this stuff?!" And she simply replied, "You just have to realize how rich some Indians are." And when I say rich, I mean rich by American standards. And then, you have people living on practically nothing.

That gap between classes has become shockingly blatent on this trip. In Delhi, I would see people begging and massive slums on a regular basis, but in Bangalore, there is more of a cosmopolitan vibe. I've only seen a handful of beggars coming up to the cars, and the slums are nothing by comparison. (However, I should mention...I'm talking about the city center...not outside of Bangalore). So, it seems strange to me that HERE is where I would really understand how prevalent that gap really is. But I think that being surrounded by the richer end of India (working in a big corporate law firm, living with a rich family, going to five star hotels with social networkers like Polina) is like a slap in the face to how bad others have it here.

Okay, so this entry sort of turned south on the whole "feeling fancy" vibe. And I truly didn't intend it to. I want to say that I think it is great that there are cities like Bangalore in India (I hear Mumbai is similar...but on a larger scale). It is great for the economy, and makes the experience living here truly pleasant...and fun! I just think it is important to make these kind of observations, and not lose sight of reality. You know?!

Okay, that's enough of that.

Peace. Love. and Happy to Feel Fancy.

Monday, 20 June 2011

Hampi.

Everyone that I’ve met on this trip has gushed about how amazing Hampi is, and how I just had to go. They claimed it is one of the most peaceful places in southern India and that the temples are just spectacular. So this weekend, despite my slight hesitation to travel alone I took them up on their advice, and was NOT disappointed.

Arriving at the bus station at 10:00 at night in the middle of Bangalore, I felt a bit like a deer in headlights. I was worried that I wasn’t in the right bus station and that the bus would take me to the wrong city. But shortly after I sat down, my agitation began to ease and I made small talk with the little Indian woman beside me. I had opted for an air conditioned sleeper bus, and I was pleasantly surprised with the cleanliness. In spite of the fact that I felt like I was in a restaurant-sized freezer the entire way, I couldn’t complain about the drive (unlike the drive to Pondy).

I arrived in Hospet at 7:00 in the morning and had met up with some other foreigners willing to share a rickshaw with me into Hampi. We whizzed by some small villages with half-naked children running around and men and women hard at work in banana plantations. When we pulled up to the Hampi Bazaar (the center of town) most of the shops were closed, but we managed to find a breakfast joint open. I ordered a banana and Nutella pancake (which was more like a crepe) and devoured it in about 3 short minutes.

All of the other foreigners that I had met were settling on dingy guesthouses in town, but I had been informed about another guesthouse across the river with spectacular views and bungalow-style rooms. I decided to forgo travel with my new acquaintances and set out on my own. Along the way to the river, rickshaw drivers tried to urge me to stay near town, claiming that the guesthouses were closed and that there were no restaurants where I was headed. I ignored them and moved forward. (I’ve become skeptical with all auto drivers lately). As I sat on a large stone in the middle of the river waiting for the boat to arrive, I met another traveler.


Tracy was also alone and debating whether or not to take a government-led tour of the temples for 250 rupees or hire a rickshaw driver to take her around for 300 rupees. Sensing her desire to see the temples with someone else, I suggested that we both hire a driver and split the cost. She happily agreed and we made our way to my guesthouse together so that I could put down my things and rinse off the sweat that was starting to soak through my shirt from the rising sun.


I cannot tell you how thrilled I was to have crossed over to the other side. After walking a short distance on a dirt path, I came to the arch of the Shanti Guest House. I was showed one cottage facing the garden for 300 rupees, and then one facing the river for 800 rupees (almost $17). Both were identical, except for the view. I splurged and went with the river-facing view. Talk about tranquility! On my porch there was a bedlike swing and I was able to lounge for a bit, taking in the scenery: rolling boulders that looked like mounds of play dough plumped on top of each other, ride fields and the winding river.


The tour that Tracy and I took was about 5 hours and let by Mogli, a boy not more than 17 years old. He was eager to show us around and explain the significance of each temple and monument.


We got back from our tour around 2:00 pm and were starving, so we stopped at the famous Mango Tree restaurant for some traditional Indian grub. The restaurant is set up with stadium-like seating so you are able to eat and look out onto the river. I enjoyed the spinach paneer and chipati while batting away the swarms of flies….which, although annoying, were not going to ruin my mood.

At that point, Tracy and I went our separate ways. I was eager to do some porch-sittin’ and take advantage of my guesthouse. I got back to the room and did just that. I sat for the next few hours, slowly swinging in the breeze and dozing in and out of sleep. It was perfect.

I woke up around 6:30 pm and met my neighbors Paulina and Heath, a married couple from the UK (who, oddly enough had lived in Salt Lake City for three years!). After chatting with them for a bit, we learned that we were both living in Bangalore and they offered to drive me home the next day. I thought about it for about .2 seconds, and jumped on the opportunity to leave mid-day so that I could get home at a reasonable time (instead of taking the night-bus home and arriving Monday morning at the crack of dawn). They also invited me to meet some friends they’d met that day for dinner. It turns out, that traveling alone is pretty much impossible and that you will meet people everywhere!

Dinner was…a bit of a disaster. We arrived at 8:00 and shortly after sitting down, we gave our orders (and for the record, I had ordered a very simple veg-brianni dish). THREE hours later, only half of our food had arrived (mine never showed up on the table), and I was exhausted and ready for bed. After some boisterous complaints made to the kitchen staff and an awkward couples-fight, I walked home past-hungry and collapsed in bed.

The next morning, I woke up early and went to meet a few of the folks I’d met the night before to see Hanuman Temple. It was recommended to me by As’il, and the trusty Lonely Planet as having gorgeous views, and lots of monkeys. (Have I mentioned what a sucker I am for monkeys??) For me, it was a must-see. We rented 2 scooters, and right at the last minute, 2 of my new friends decided to bail and go back to sleep. So, my new friend Chris and I decided to move forward and meet them for breakfast a little while later.

Hanuman Temple was by far the highlight of the trip. After a steep 570-step climb, you are graced with a view of the entire valley. There is a whitewashed temple crawling with monkeys and reverberating with chanting sadus. There are really no words to describe how gorgeous it was (or how cute the baby monkeys were). I enjoyed wandering alone for awhile, meeting a young temple-boy, and taking snaps of moneys picking at each other and fighting like humans. But I was thankful that I went with someone who could take some great photos of me as well!


On our way back to my guesthouse, Chris had the brilliant idea that I drive the scooter. Let me just mention here that I have never driven a 2-weeled vehicle, and normally would have shot him down in a heartbeat (for I am wobbly on a bicycle). However, caught up in the moment of adventure, I agreed. At first, it was really easy and I zoomed along for a good 5-7 minutes. But then, oh then….then the road decided to curve, and I realized I had no ability to actually steer the damn thing, so instead, I drove us into a ditch. Idiot. Luckily, neither of us was hurt, and we came out of the situation laughing. However, I was no longer allowed to drive.


The trip was a major success! I was brave enough to go on my own, and I channeled my inner social butterfly and came back with new friends. I would recommend Hampi to anyone and everyone making their way through India as it truly is a must-see.

Peace. Love. Crash.

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

A shift in perspective.

The other day, I was talking with my friend Maria who is a designer here in Bangalore. She is currently working on designing outdoor spaces and a spa for a fancy-shmancy hotel in Mumbai. (Dream job?! Yes!!) Of course, I had to ask her scads of questions as I was immediately in awe of her profession and how she came to live in India.

I first said: Wow. You must be so inspired here. You are so lucky to be working in a country with such rich textiles and color and culture…

She cut me off there.

Now, it is important to know something about Maria. She is very direct, and doesn’t hide her emotions one bit. She is a tiny Spanish woman with the voice of an opera singer (and by that, I mean she is very loud to the point where you are surprised that such noise can come out of such a tiny little thing). She has opinions, and is more than willing to share them.

And so, to my excitement and awe, she responded with a guffaw. According to Maria, India has no culture.

At first, I thought this lady was absolutely nuts. What did she mean, there was no culture?? Was she blind?? How could she be a designer and not see the culture??

So, I begged her to explain her reasoning (knowing full well that she had plenty of reasoning).

Her reply was something like this:

Everything in India is the same. People dress the same, the buildings look the same. No one steps out of the box. In New York, Paris, Barcelona, people dare to be different. They wear crazy things, design wild architecture, and that is inspiring. Here, there are three different variations on the same thing: Poor, Middle-class, and Rich. And the only difference between them is that the Rich try to out-do the Poor by throwing all of their money into gaudy displays of wealth to prove that they do, in fact, have money. They don’t appreciate the beauty in simplicity. People see India as having “so much culture” because the cars move fast, and because of the slums and the color. But all that is, is a distinction of classes and signs of a truly developing country-not at all what culture is.

In other words, she is completely uninspired and dreams of going back to Spain.

Okay. Now THAT got me thinking. Because since the day that I stepped foot into this country (years ago), I have been under this impression that India was so rich in culture, and that is what I loved about it. I don’t know that I agree with Maria that India has NO culture, but the more that I’ve started looking around, I have begun to understand her point. True, people fit into a mold here, and they never dare to escape it. That is why people gawk at you when you aren’t wearing a traditional sari or kurta. That is why all Indian movies are similarly and distinctly “Indian.” However, I still can’t help but be inspired by certain things that I see on a daily basis. When I walk into some of my favorite stores here, looking at the fabrics and prints make me want to decorate and develop my creativity. But, it certainly is interesting to see things in such a different way now.

(all photos taken in goodearth at the UBCity Mall)

peace. love. inspiration.

Tuesday, 14 June 2011

pondy-day 2.

the second day of pondy was much better than the first. (not that i can really complain about the first day). Asil, Annabel and I chose to find "the real french quarters" of town while the others checked out another beach. we had success and meandered through the cobblestone neighborhoods, admiring pink blossoms pouring over the walls and stopping in little shops to purchase goodies to take back home.

Asil wouldn't let me get away with avoiding the Indian tradition of having a cake smashed in your face on your birthday either. Although, her version was much nicer, which i appreciated greatly!


and after another long and sweaty bus ride (which i didn't have to worry so much about because i smartened up and took a sleeping pill) we stepped off the coach and into the brisk, fresh air of bangalore. i don't think i've ever felt so good.


peace. love. and pondy.

pondicherry.

after reading my last post, you may have gotten the feeling that i was feeling a little "bleh" on my birthday. and, well...you would be correct. but here are some things that i am really happy about:

1.) my sweet birthday surprise from my host family.


2.) my mum sent me a birthday card and i received it in my office today!


3.) i got to go to pondicherry....

so. pondicherry. (i can't help but smile and think of Colin because he thought that was such a cute name for a city).

after what seemed to be an endless day in the office, i met up with the girls at Asil's apartment. Waiting for me was my second birthday treat! What wonderful friends...and how lucky am i to have met them!


after scarfing down those delicious sweets, we made our way to the bus station, knowing full well that the bus would not be on time. (in fact, even though our boarding time said 9:15, we didn't leave bangalore until around 11:00!!) the bus was a sleeper, and although it was rather dank, i couldn't help but feel a little giddy like i was stepping onto the hogwart's express or something. (this was me truly bending my imagination to look beyond the dirty beds, the fact that we had to sleep next to another person and the fact that there was no air conditioning).

(pardon the grease-ball picture of myself)

as we whipped along the curvy and bumpy roads for seven straight hours, my mind raced. i kept thinking, what if this is how i die? what if the driver takes one turn too sharp, and we fall off of a cliff? what if we get in a head on collision...and my head bashes into the partition? how awful would it be to die on my birthday? (so that is what the padded ceiling was for...which looked more like the interior of a prison van.) i know that sounds crazy and morbid, but i truly couldn't help it. it was perhaps one of the scariest rides of my life and i didn't get a wink of sleep. (unlike maria who (knowingly) popped a sleeping pill and slept soundly next to me).

so when we finally arrived to pondy, needless to say, i was simultaneously relieved, exhausted and wired. i wanted nothing more than to find a guesthouse, take a long cold shower to rinse the stink off of me, and brush my fuzzy teeth. instead, i was forced to remember that it was not only me traveling on this journey and instead, a group of eight. instead of going to a guesthouse then, we took a rickshaw to the beach, and wandered around looking for coffee. (apparently some people can't function without coffee...i am not one of those people. i am however one of those people who cannot function without a shower. grumble grumble...) we stopped in a nice little cafe and i ate my first (of many) croissant of the weekend. i didn't even realize how much i missed the soft, buttery dough melting on my tongue. (croissants are part of my staple diet at home).

then it was time to deliberate where to stay. some wanted to be near the beach, others by the city center...did i mention that the appeal (in my mind at least) of pondy is that it is a french colonial town? i imagined a charming Provencal village laced with inviting guesthouses next to the beach. white bed linens blowing in the breeze. a glass of cheap wine in hand. the perfect locale for a 25th birthday. the reality was much different. as the Lonely Planet puts it: "most of Pondy is honk-scream-screech-honk-chaos." The city is split from east to west by a partially covered sewer canal which smells...god awful. the more "french" part of town is to the east side and the more "indian" part of town to the west. unfortunately, the rickshaw drivers must not have understood our english, because we were taken to neither east nor west and wound up on a dirt path with a few run-down guesthouses in the middle of nowhere.

we chose the least awful option. the color scheme seemed to be based on liver and molding pumpkin. the walls that might once have been white had succumbed under the humidity and mold. but, at least it had a nice view of the beach, working fans to circulate the stale air, and most importantly, a proper shower (which the other options seemed to be missing).

after settling in, it was back into town to explore. here are some images of what we saw:


we also came across a nice little french bakery (where i had my second croissant...and for only 20 rupees!) with air conditioning!! at this point i was starting to sway to the rhythm of my own breath i was so hot. sweat was forming bubbles on my upper lip and i was in dire need of cold mineral water. this establishment was a welcomed surprise.


however, the highlight of the day was definintely meeting Lakshmi. she was this pretty little elephant, all dressed up in bangles and paint, standing outside of a temple in the middle of town, and for a rupee she would bless you. (i ended up giving her 3 rupees...i figured i could be blessed more than once!)


here are some more images from throughout the day...


okay, that's enough for now...i'll post photos of pondy-day 2 in a little while.

peace. love. and elephant blessings.