Arriving at the bus station at 10:00 at night in the middle of Bangalore, I felt a bit like a deer in headlights. I was worried that I wasn’t in the right bus station and that the bus would take me to the wrong city. But shortly after I sat down, my agitation began to ease and I made small talk with the little Indian woman beside me. I had opted for an air conditioned sleeper bus, and I was pleasantly surprised with the cleanliness. In spite of the fact that I felt like I was in a restaurant-sized freezer the entire way, I couldn’t complain about the drive (unlike the drive to Pondy).
I arrived in Hospet at 7:00 in the morning and had met up with some other foreigners willing to share a rickshaw with me into Hampi. We whizzed by some small villages with half-naked children running around and men and women hard at work in banana plantations. When we pulled up to the Hampi Bazaar (the center of town) most of the shops were closed, but we managed to find a breakfast joint open. I ordered a banana and Nutella pancake (which was more like a crepe) and devoured it in about 3 short minutes.
All of the other foreigners that I had met were settling on dingy guesthouses in town, but I had been informed about another guesthouse across the river with spectacular views and bungalow-style rooms. I decided to forgo travel with my new acquaintances and set out on my own. Along the way to the river, rickshaw drivers tried to urge me to stay near town, claiming that the guesthouses were closed and that there were no restaurants where I was headed. I ignored them and moved forward. (I’ve become skeptical with all auto drivers lately). As I sat on a large stone in the middle of the river waiting for the boat to arrive, I met another traveler.
Tracy was also alone and debating whether or not to take a government-led tour of the temples for 250 rupees or hire a rickshaw driver to take her around for 300 rupees. Sensing her desire to see the temples with someone else, I suggested that we both hire a driver and split the cost. She happily agreed and we made our way to my guesthouse together so that I could put down my things and rinse off the sweat that was starting to soak through my shirt from the rising sun.
I cannot tell you how thrilled I was to have crossed over to the other side. After walking a short distance on a dirt path, I came to the arch of the Shanti Guest House. I was showed one cottage facing the garden for 300 rupees, and then one facing the river for 800 rupees (almost $17). Both were identical, except for the view. I splurged and went with the river-facing view. Talk about tranquility! On my porch there was a bedlike swing and I was able to lounge for a bit, taking in the scenery: rolling boulders that looked like mounds of play dough plumped on top of each other, ride fields and the winding river.
The tour that Tracy and I took was about 5 hours and let by Mogli, a boy not more than 17 years old. He was eager to show us around and explain the significance of each temple and monument.
We got back from our tour around 2:00 pm and were starving, so we stopped at the famous Mango Tree restaurant for some traditional Indian grub. The restaurant is set up with stadium-like seating so you are able to eat and look out onto the river. I enjoyed the spinach paneer and chipati while batting away the swarms of flies….which, although annoying, were not going to ruin my mood.
At that point, Tracy and I went our separate ways. I was eager to do some porch-sittin’ and take advantage of my guesthouse. I got back to the room and did just that. I sat for the next few hours, slowly swinging in the breeze and dozing in and out of sleep. It was perfect.
I woke up around 6:30 pm and met my neighbors Paulina and Heath, a married couple from the UK (who, oddly enough had lived in Salt Lake City for three years!). After chatting with them for a bit, we learned that we were both living in Bangalore and they offered to drive me home the next day. I thought about it for about .2 seconds, and jumped on the opportunity to leave mid-day so that I could get home at a reasonable time (instead of taking the night-bus home and arriving Monday morning at the crack of dawn). They also invited me to meet some friends they’d met that day for dinner. It turns out, that traveling alone is pretty much impossible and that you will meet people everywhere!
Dinner was…a bit of a disaster. We arrived at 8:00 and shortly after sitting down, we gave our orders (and for the record, I had ordered a very simple veg-brianni dish). THREE hours later, only half of our food had arrived (mine never showed up on the table), and I was exhausted and ready for bed. After some boisterous complaints made to the kitchen staff and an awkward couples-fight, I walked home past-hungry and collapsed in bed.
The next morning, I woke up early and went to meet a few of the folks I’d met the night before to see Hanuman Temple. It was recommended to me by As’il, and the trusty Lonely Planet as having gorgeous views, and lots of monkeys. (Have I mentioned what a sucker I am for monkeys??) For me, it was a must-see. We rented 2 scooters, and right at the last minute, 2 of my new friends decided to bail and go back to sleep. So, my new friend Chris and I decided to move forward and meet them for breakfast a little while later.
Hanuman Temple was by far the highlight of the trip. After a steep 570-step climb, you are graced with a view of the entire valley. There is a whitewashed temple crawling with monkeys and reverberating with chanting sadus. There are really no words to describe how gorgeous it was (or how cute the baby monkeys were). I enjoyed wandering alone for awhile, meeting a young temple-boy, and taking snaps of moneys picking at each other and fighting like humans. But I was thankful that I went with someone who could take some great photos of me as well!
On our way back to my guesthouse, Chris had the brilliant idea that I drive the scooter. Let me just mention here that I have never driven a 2-weeled vehicle, and normally would have shot him down in a heartbeat (for I am wobbly on a bicycle). However, caught up in the moment of adventure, I agreed. At first, it was really easy and I zoomed along for a good 5-7 minutes. But then, oh then….then the road decided to curve, and I realized I had no ability to actually steer the damn thing, so instead, I drove us into a ditch. Idiot. Luckily, neither of us was hurt, and we came out of the situation laughing. However, I was no longer allowed to drive.
The trip was a major success! I was brave enough to go on my own, and I channeled my inner social butterfly and came back with new friends. I would recommend Hampi to anyone and everyone making their way through India as it truly is a must-see.
Peace. Love. Crash.
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