Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve

Well, here’s how it goes…

This past weekend, Gretta Spendlove (Jonny’s mom) took me under her wing as one of her own and treated me to a weekend getaway with the Spendloves. After my gloomy farewell to the students (who all demanded that I come back to India soon), we went home to pack and tie up loose ends at the apartment. Nancy left for Vietnam and we left for the Old Delhi train station.

Around week 2 in Delhi, we were overly-eager and brave and traveled to Varanasi by non-A/C sleeper train (as avid blog readers might remember). It is incredible how less-affected I was by the whole system and the “train station scene” this time around. Instead of being highly offended by the smells, I remembered to bring a cloth to filter my breaths. Instead of being shocked by the number of people crowded in such a small space-mulling around, begging, sleeping on cement-I became aware that I was one of them. Instead of being baffled by the lack of logic of the station (which proved apparent when we got completely turned around when attempting to find our out-of-order car) I laughed while jogging alongside the train, hoping that it wouldn’t take off without us.

In fact, the train did not take off without us. As we heaved our tired and confused bodies onto the correct train car, the locals/more experienced train goers laughed at our inexperience and sweat. The second that I saw my home sweet home (a bunk squished between two others and lined with a thick, sticky, plastic covering) I sighed in relief. Unlike our first train experience, this train ride would be coupled with air conditioning and sheets for the beds. Also unlike our first train experience, it was a mere 6 hours instead of 16 hours long. This would be a breeze. But then I looked over at Gretta. I think that she was a bit in shock and certainly not aware of what she was getting herself into.

See, the train is a much cheaper way to travel through India. Sure, there are quicker and arguably more convenient flights to take, but they seriously lack the authentic Indian train experience. Little did poor Gretta know that we would be stuffed like sardines onto this grimy train (which to us, after our non-A/C trip to Varanasi looked like the freaking Ritz Carleton) and little did I know of poor Gretta’s claustrophobia. After arranging ourselves on the bunks and making sure she had enough to read, and enough light, I fell asleep. However, she woke up at three in the morning, and had to move out of the bunk to where there was more space. I felt bad and realized that there were some details that we had entirely overlooked. I also felt bad because it made me realize what an experienced and easy-going traveler I have become. (a personal positive attribute recognized at another's expense is somewhat unfortunate.) Regardless, Gretta surprised me with her optimism and said that it sure was an adventure she normally wouldn't have embarked on, but a fun one at that!

After 6 sleepless/sleep-filled hours, we made it to our final destination: Ramenegar, a state in India bordering Nepal, China and Tibet and home to the Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve. I had no idea what to expect for the weekend, I was just coming along for the ride because the Spendloves so graciously invited me. Little did I know the adventures that were in store for me.

We checked into our resort-The Corbett Hideaway and were delighted by its rustic and Club Med-style charm. Clearly, this was going to be a weekend unlike our previous weekend excursions spent in cheap hostels with bug-filled rooms and a single bed to share among four. First thing was first with Gretta: setting up the itinerary. Where Gretta lacked in train-eagerness, she makes up for it in vacation-eagerness. “You don’t relax on a vacation, relaxing is for when you get home,” she said with a twinkle in her eye. Hm….a little different philosophy than what I have been brought up with.

Day one: tiger safari. The much anticipated tiger safari turned out to be nothing what we had expected. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see any animals to write home about. There were numerous herds of deer (and those who know me well know how un-thrilled I was about that), a bunny, a tortoise and lots of birds. No elephants and no tigers (despite the numerous footprints that we saw). Despite that disappointment, we were pleasantly surprised by the affects of the Indian jungle. It certainly was fun listening for warning sounds that a tiger or leopard was near, searching for wildlife and enjoying the fresh air and nature.

Day two: river rafting and elephant joyride. River rafting was my most favorite part of the weekend. I’d never been before and I have to say, I’m totally hooked now. We causally drifted along the Cosi River, occasionally hitting some exhilarating rapids that splashed over our raft. The weather was beautiful and I was able to get some sun on my shoulders. Towards the end of the trip, our guide let us jump out and swim in the river. It felt so good to swim-my first time this summer! I relaxed and let the currents carry me a little ways before swimming back to calmer waters. The sand felt thick under my feet and the whole experience reminded me of Walloon Lake. Later, when we got back to the resort, we rung out our soaking wet clothes and got ready for our elephant joyride. I was hesitant to join, but Gretta was eager to have us all involved. Our elephant was a 40 year old female named Latchme. She took us on a little safari of her own through some forest brush. It was a different experience to travel on an elephant and I felt so sad when our guide would whack her with his metal pole. I will even go as far to say that it rightly pissed me off.

Day three: stuck inside most of the day due to monsoon downpour, then a nature walk. We slept most of the day during the monsoon, I finished reading Water For Elephants (a story about the circus), and then went on an hour long nature walk. Our guide nonchalantly mentioned the likeliness of seeing a tiger on our way, which agitated Jenny and I-especially when we realized we had nothing to protect us if an encounter did occur. Luckily, there was no such encounter. It was our fourth excursion into the wild, and I have to say, I was ready to get back to Delhi-as I can only take so much nature in one weekend (a true city girl at heart.)

I left The Corbett Hideaway feeling like I had experienced a weekend of relaxation and rejuvenation (despite the constant activities). I’m happy to say that I am now completely pumped to experience the final leg of my four month journey.

Last night, I said my goodbyes to the Spendloves at the airport and we went our separate ways. I was thankful of the efficiency of the new Delhi airport, there were no major issues whatsoever and I’m now safely in Bangkok sitting in my room at the Grand Ville Hotel. I’ve been greatly disappointed by the weather-I was really hoping to spend my entire time in Bangkok enjoying the pool and sipping cocktails, however the gray skies have tampered with these plans. So, it looks like I will in fact be sightseeing after all.

Stay tuned for more on Bangkok….
Peace!