Thursday, 7 August 2008

Photos from today...

This morning was filled with sightseeing....we visited the Grand Palace and the Reclining Buddha. All I can say is: wow! They were absolutely spectacular.

Mural paintings along the walls of the Grand Palace

Ceiling of the Grand Palace

Various buildings and statues in the Grand Palace

Me posing in front of another gorgeous mural

The Reclining Buddha....so big a small village could easily fit inside

Wednesday, 6 August 2008

First Day in Bangkok

Well how do I begin? I’ve already had quite the adventure in Bangkok and I was in the city a mere 5 hours today. I got dropped off at my hotel which was supposedly this extravagant building with gorgeous suites, only to find that my room resembles a run down Motel 6 room, complete with tacky dark wood doors and matching bed frames. I regret not checking into one of the MUCH cheaper hostels, though this will be more convenient, as my tour starts here. However, it has it’s perks…it sits in the heart of China Town and my window overlooks the whole city, which I greatly appreciate.

Instead of being able to enjoy a day poolside, sipping cocktails as intended, the sky was overcast. I decided instead to relax in my room and fell into a deep sleep. I woke up around noon and decided to do something with myself considering I was, after all, in Bangkok. I got ready to a shower with water beating down on me like no water pressure I’ve ever known, brushed my teeth, ate a small snack and headed out into the world.

I discovered that the few places that I was planning on sightseeing were closing too soon, so instead I took Sonali’s recommendation and hit up a shopping center. The receptionist recommended MBK which is essentially a gigantic mall, much like you would see in New York. One side of the mall has more knock-off designer merchandise than I could handle. Unfortunately, this was the side that I spent most of my time in, unknowing of the other ritzier side. After tiring of fake Chanel purses and D&G sunglasses, I decided to get a bus home. (Much cheaper than an overpriced taxi). Little did I know that when I stepped outside, I would discover “THE OTHER SIDE.” I had to go in to look and see what they had to offer, which included a Steve Madden, MAC, Lucky Brand and The North Face store. All incredibly expensive and made me wish that I was rich. I also wandered through the home décor shops. This is where I spent most of my time in Delhi when I would go shopping, ogling over gorgeous textiles and furniture. However, Bangkok décor just isn’t my thing. It is a little too edgy, modern and sleek. Nothing looks or feels comfortable. Still, it was fun to look.

By the time I left, it was dark and I realized that everything (of course) looks different in the dark. Finding a bus was the easy part, but getting to my hotel was a bit of a disaster. After realizing that I totally did not have my bearings of the city after one afternoon, and looking hopeless I’m sure, I decided to ask for help. The woman next to me told me when to get off, but when I stepped off of the bus, nothing looked familiar. So, naturally, I go into subtle panic mode. You know, the feeling like, “oh shit, I’m in Bangkok and don’t know where the hell I am, and I’m probably going to get murdered and no one will be the wiser,” followed by quick paced walking and consistent looking behind the shoulder. After wandering a bit and still feeling lost, I asked woman cooking some smelly thing on the street. She points, I nod and follow her directions. Still no sign of my hotel. So after about five minutes, I ask another gentlemen who looks like a security guard. He points, I nod and follow his directions. Still no sign of my hotel. Instead, I’ve been walking for about 20 minutes (after getting off of the bus) through garbage and past scary dark alleys. Finally, I recognized the large bucket of artificial KFC chicken that I can see out of my hotel window and let out a sigh of relief. Home sweet home at last. The Grand Ville Hotel never looked so good. Now, I have to be honest, everyone that I talked to was very kind, no one was particularly scary and I was probably over-reacting a bit. But it just gives me the heebie jeebs to be wandering in an unknown city at night. I’ve decided that tomorrow I’m going to get an early start on my sightseeing adventure as to avoid nightfall.

Time for a dinner of pad thai….
Peace!

Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve

Well, here’s how it goes…

This past weekend, Gretta Spendlove (Jonny’s mom) took me under her wing as one of her own and treated me to a weekend getaway with the Spendloves. After my gloomy farewell to the students (who all demanded that I come back to India soon), we went home to pack and tie up loose ends at the apartment. Nancy left for Vietnam and we left for the Old Delhi train station.

Around week 2 in Delhi, we were overly-eager and brave and traveled to Varanasi by non-A/C sleeper train (as avid blog readers might remember). It is incredible how less-affected I was by the whole system and the “train station scene” this time around. Instead of being highly offended by the smells, I remembered to bring a cloth to filter my breaths. Instead of being shocked by the number of people crowded in such a small space-mulling around, begging, sleeping on cement-I became aware that I was one of them. Instead of being baffled by the lack of logic of the station (which proved apparent when we got completely turned around when attempting to find our out-of-order car) I laughed while jogging alongside the train, hoping that it wouldn’t take off without us.

In fact, the train did not take off without us. As we heaved our tired and confused bodies onto the correct train car, the locals/more experienced train goers laughed at our inexperience and sweat. The second that I saw my home sweet home (a bunk squished between two others and lined with a thick, sticky, plastic covering) I sighed in relief. Unlike our first train experience, this train ride would be coupled with air conditioning and sheets for the beds. Also unlike our first train experience, it was a mere 6 hours instead of 16 hours long. This would be a breeze. But then I looked over at Gretta. I think that she was a bit in shock and certainly not aware of what she was getting herself into.

See, the train is a much cheaper way to travel through India. Sure, there are quicker and arguably more convenient flights to take, but they seriously lack the authentic Indian train experience. Little did poor Gretta know that we would be stuffed like sardines onto this grimy train (which to us, after our non-A/C trip to Varanasi looked like the freaking Ritz Carleton) and little did I know of poor Gretta’s claustrophobia. After arranging ourselves on the bunks and making sure she had enough to read, and enough light, I fell asleep. However, she woke up at three in the morning, and had to move out of the bunk to where there was more space. I felt bad and realized that there were some details that we had entirely overlooked. I also felt bad because it made me realize what an experienced and easy-going traveler I have become. (a personal positive attribute recognized at another's expense is somewhat unfortunate.) Regardless, Gretta surprised me with her optimism and said that it sure was an adventure she normally wouldn't have embarked on, but a fun one at that!

After 6 sleepless/sleep-filled hours, we made it to our final destination: Ramenegar, a state in India bordering Nepal, China and Tibet and home to the Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve. I had no idea what to expect for the weekend, I was just coming along for the ride because the Spendloves so graciously invited me. Little did I know the adventures that were in store for me.

We checked into our resort-The Corbett Hideaway and were delighted by its rustic and Club Med-style charm. Clearly, this was going to be a weekend unlike our previous weekend excursions spent in cheap hostels with bug-filled rooms and a single bed to share among four. First thing was first with Gretta: setting up the itinerary. Where Gretta lacked in train-eagerness, she makes up for it in vacation-eagerness. “You don’t relax on a vacation, relaxing is for when you get home,” she said with a twinkle in her eye. Hm….a little different philosophy than what I have been brought up with.

Day one: tiger safari. The much anticipated tiger safari turned out to be nothing what we had expected. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see any animals to write home about. There were numerous herds of deer (and those who know me well know how un-thrilled I was about that), a bunny, a tortoise and lots of birds. No elephants and no tigers (despite the numerous footprints that we saw). Despite that disappointment, we were pleasantly surprised by the affects of the Indian jungle. It certainly was fun listening for warning sounds that a tiger or leopard was near, searching for wildlife and enjoying the fresh air and nature.

Day two: river rafting and elephant joyride. River rafting was my most favorite part of the weekend. I’d never been before and I have to say, I’m totally hooked now. We causally drifted along the Cosi River, occasionally hitting some exhilarating rapids that splashed over our raft. The weather was beautiful and I was able to get some sun on my shoulders. Towards the end of the trip, our guide let us jump out and swim in the river. It felt so good to swim-my first time this summer! I relaxed and let the currents carry me a little ways before swimming back to calmer waters. The sand felt thick under my feet and the whole experience reminded me of Walloon Lake. Later, when we got back to the resort, we rung out our soaking wet clothes and got ready for our elephant joyride. I was hesitant to join, but Gretta was eager to have us all involved. Our elephant was a 40 year old female named Latchme. She took us on a little safari of her own through some forest brush. It was a different experience to travel on an elephant and I felt so sad when our guide would whack her with his metal pole. I will even go as far to say that it rightly pissed me off.

Day three: stuck inside most of the day due to monsoon downpour, then a nature walk. We slept most of the day during the monsoon, I finished reading Water For Elephants (a story about the circus), and then went on an hour long nature walk. Our guide nonchalantly mentioned the likeliness of seeing a tiger on our way, which agitated Jenny and I-especially when we realized we had nothing to protect us if an encounter did occur. Luckily, there was no such encounter. It was our fourth excursion into the wild, and I have to say, I was ready to get back to Delhi-as I can only take so much nature in one weekend (a true city girl at heart.)

I left The Corbett Hideaway feeling like I had experienced a weekend of relaxation and rejuvenation (despite the constant activities). I’m happy to say that I am now completely pumped to experience the final leg of my four month journey.

Last night, I said my goodbyes to the Spendloves at the airport and we went our separate ways. I was thankful of the efficiency of the new Delhi airport, there were no major issues whatsoever and I’m now safely in Bangkok sitting in my room at the Grand Ville Hotel. I’ve been greatly disappointed by the weather-I was really hoping to spend my entire time in Bangkok enjoying the pool and sipping cocktails, however the gray skies have tampered with these plans. So, it looks like I will in fact be sightseeing after all.

Stay tuned for more on Bangkok….
Peace!

Thursday, 31 July 2008

Okay, let's be honest...this summer has been amazing!

Some of my favorite photos from the last few weeks....it's been a while since I've posted pictures!

Silly Interns in the rickshaw!


Me, Nancy and Vijay doing yoga


Student's Dance Class


Group discussion at the UNAIDS Conference


Looking professional at the UNAIDS Conference


The Whole Gang! (and the dogs)

Last Day of Work

It is that time of summer-time for the final goodbye to the wonderful Maitri Team. It is my last, bittersweet day of work today and I am astonished at how much I have changed this summer, and I know that I won’t realize the depth of change until I’ve arrived in Salt Lake City and get back to “real life.” Already though, I have started to notice my life blending into the Indian way-of-life. No longer am I blatantly aware of the poverty and living conditions of my neighbors or those who come to beg at my car window. I no longer register that I am on the streets of Delhi; rather it seems to be the streets of a place called home. Everything is strikingly familiar, and yet, so temporary to me. I leave on Tuesday, and won’t be waking up to the racket of the pigeons outside of my bedroom window. I won’t be squishing into the tiny, antique rickshaw that inches me through Delhi pollution and traffic to get to work. I won’t be blasted with the most blissful wall of air conditioning as I walk through the doors of the Maitri office. I won’t be greeted in the high pitch, whining voices of the students “GOODMORNINGMA’AM”. Nope. Instead, at this time next week, I’ll be somewhere unknown again-somewhere that I become blatantly familiar of each new thing, and where I feel like an outsider looking in. My routine is going to shift drastically, and instead of focusing on work-related issues, and becoming accustomed to new living conditions, I will be sightseeing as a bona fide tourist. Upon arrival from Africa I experienced reverse culture shock, and similarly I worry that I will go through the same feelings. Only, instead of being in the comfort of my home, I will be among strangers and on the road (or in the sky, or in a river). So, how will I cope with reverse culture shock while simultaneously coping with regular culture shock?

What an amazing experience this has been! This India place sure is intoxicating. I caught glimpses of my love for India throughout the trip. Sometimes, the glimpse even lasted a couple days, or a week. But you never realize the extent to which you love something until you don’t have it. And I am realizing, while packing up all of my belongings and wrapping goodbye presents, that this is one of those places that I’m going to reminisce forever.

Stay tuned folks for another country another day!
Peace.

Thursday, 24 July 2008

HIV Workshop at the Modern School

This morning, we woke up really early, and went to this beautiful school to conduct our last HIV workshop-this one focusing on drug and substance abuse. The group was about 30 students in "class 12" who were participatory and eager to answer our questions. The workshop began with a brief summary of HIV/AIDS, then we talked about discrimination and stigma. The students brainstormed adjectives for how they feel when they are accepted in a group and when they are discriminated against. We explained that people who are HIV positive often deal with discrimination on a daily basis. Then, we discussed how to balance power and fight stigma. The students had encouraging responses, such as, "treat others the way you want to be treated" and "become educated and aware of HIV." After a brief skit about a girl who became HIV positive after having unprotected sex when she was drunk, I transitioned into drug awareness, ways to talk about drugs with your family and friends and ways to say no. The students seemed to have a strong grasp on the subject matter. Even though they said that they didn't encounter pressure to do drugs, they made it apparent that it was an issue that other students at their school face and that they would likely face if they went to college. I always get a sense of gratification after the workshops. If I helped keep one student drug free today, it was a success. If they can remember one message about discrimination that was discussed today, it was a success.

Also, some promising news on the dance show....it looks like it will possibly be happening on Wednesday! Blog readers: KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED FOR ME!!!

Yesterday was our last day with Winnie and the General. They left for the USA last night so they had us over for a delicious, mouth-watering lunch. I will truly miss the tomato paste paneer. It is my most favorite Indian dish, with such a savory medley of sweet and creamy flavors. The squares of cheese squish between your teeth with an almost squeaky sensation. This other dish, which resembles white chunky lumps, has been slowly growing on me as well. From what I can tell, it is chick peas mixed with sour cream and something else to make it rather watery. Dripping this on top of red beans and rice is such a lovely combination of tang. Then, it must be mentioned...the vanilla ice cream (unlike any vanilla I've ever tasted, a heavenly, out of this world delight) and mango dessert is truly a scrumtrulescent highlight of the meal. I will definitely miss Winnie and the General's powerful presence in the office. They are the most kind and generous people, yet without words, they demand respect in a way that is unmatched. I've never felt so welcome and comfortable and yet simultaneously on the tip of my toes and uneasy in my life.

I can tell that I am getting anxious for the next leg of my journey. I received the documentation and travel itinerary yesterday and last night, I couldn't sleep because I was so wound up thinking about how much room I will have in my suitcase, and what I need to bring. There is so much to think about! This part of the trip has been poorly planned, likely because it is at the very end and because I figured it would all be taken care of through the tour agency that I'm going with. But after reviewing the information, I'm realizing that I need to focus on what is in my near future....Bangkok, Cambodia and Vietnam.

And, I'm homesick. Terribly homesick and tired of traveling. My whole body is tired and I am yearning for the comforts of home. I know that I just need to buck up because I will look back and think of this trip as one of the best experiences of my life. However, at this point in the summer, going on a trip where I'm traveling somewhere new every day and sightseeing from sunup to sundown sounds like death. I'm just ready to sleep in my own big bed, see my beautiful dog and eat a burger. Enough of this vegetarian shit.

Peace.

Tuesday, 22 July 2008

No title.

It is the second to last week here and we are still working on the dance performance…hoping, somewhat in vain, that the show will happen, though at this point I’m highly doubting it. I need to think optimistically though. It is amazing the way that things are pulled off here!

We have also been asked to compile a couple of reports for the OMAXE project. One on health concerns such as health equity, and another on social capital. Working with these interns has been extremely efficient. We are able to divvy up work and finish whole reports in a matter of hours! If only I was able carry them with me for the rest of my life!

I’ve been thoroughly enjoying the Tata Sky lately. For those of you who are not aware of what Tata Sky is, it is basically direct TV, only with far fewer English channels. When I’m not at work, I’m letting my mind go to waste in front of the tube watching nonsense. And just a note on the commercials-because it must be said…horrifying does not begin to describe them. This month is “Shivers and Shakes” month, so they are featuring scary movies every evening. In the USA, previews to scary movies can be eerie and give you the gist of the movie. Here though, they show the most disgusting, bloody, violently shocking moments in the movie! There really is no point in watching the movie after you have been forced to watch the vampire rip out a bloody heart and lick the blood about a dozen times each time the commercial airs. If you switch the channel, it is likely that you will see a commercial with a “To Be Continued….” I’m not kidding, they actually leave you in suspense. Will the sexy man find his dream girl radiating of Oil of Olay soft pink shimmer moisturizer? Talk about advertising!

Finally, I must voice my pathetic little frustrations with our cook. I have transformed. I used to be completely uncomfortable with the idea of hired help, which sounds bizarre, since I have worked as a house cleaner and a nanny. But at my age, I never dreamed that I would hire help. I mean hello! I’m 22! However, I no longer feel the need to sympathize with my cook. In fact, I wanted to scream at her yesterday.

First of all, we found out the other day that she is completely overpaid. It’s okay because she speaks broken-English and makes a damn fine meal. Still, I am get slightly irritated at this news. Then, when we ask her to start making lunches (because they stopped bringing lunch to the office for us) she pouts. Pouts and complains! Even though it is her job, and we give her mornings and weekends off, she pouts! Then, we all got sick because of some potatoes that she cooked. When confronted, instead of accepting the blame, she made excuses and suggested that it was something else that we ate. She is the only person that cooks for us! We weren’t even mad or rude; we just wanted her to cook the potatoes longer and at a higher heat! Finally, last night was the kicker… I was in a deep sleep and feeling under-the-weather, and she comes waltzing into my room and wakes me up to come eat dinner. I tell her I’m sleeping, and she continues to wake me up. I tell her I’m still sleeping, and she continues to wake me up. I tell her that I AM STILL SLEEPING, and she CONTINUES TO WAKE ME UP! Ooohhhh I was so bugged! Is it too much to ask not to be forced to eat? Is it too much to ask to be left alone when I’m face down in a pillow?

What is my deal?! Am I allowed to get frustrated? I think the difficult thing, is that Winnie and Sonal make it quite clear that our cook is completely pampered by us. It is hard to be stuck in a triangle between us (unknowing foreigners), our pouting cook, and our bosses who are in disbelief by her overly-ideal situation. I think back to when I was a house cleaner, or a nanny, and if my bosses asked me to do something, I would, of course do it! No pouting involved! It’s a job! It’s what you get paid to do! It’s what you are hired for!

Okay, enough venting.
Breath.